October 2016

Going to Peru
For all the wrong reasons.

peru-2012-018

Uncle Enrique, with my Aunt Elsa, and myself in 2012.

This trip was not planned.   I went because my loving uncle Enrique passed away.    Enrique was an amazing man.   Not only was he a professor, but he was a brilliant engineer.   He had written more books than I can count.   I am thankful to God for the gift of Surfing.  If it were not for surfing, I would not have gotten to know him as well as I did over the past 6 years.   He and my aunt were always so generous letting not only me, but my friends stay at their house when we were in Lima.    I enjoyed talking to him, helping him out with his computer, and watching his favorite TV show with him.   He was a kind, intelligent man, with a super generous heart.   I will miss him dearly.

The day after the funeral, I went to Punta Rocas.   As I paddled out, I dedicated my surf session to him.   Well, that did not turn out too well.   On my second wave, my leash broke.   I had to swim into the rocks, trying to save my board from getting more damaged than it was already.   I tied the broken leash to my ankle, and went back out to get more waves.   However, Punta Rocas is a place where you do not want to mess around.    I mentally was not there after the funeral, and knowing if I lost my board, I would have another long swim.    I called it a session after an hour.  A local Peruvian surfer, who saw my broken leash came to my rescue as he brought another leash to my aunts house.

The next day I returned, and it was this session that was for my uncle Enrique.   It was the Punta Rocas I knew.   Powerful, clean, uncrowded, and super fun.   I thought of Enrique as I rode the waves.   It brought me peace knowing both he and I were in a better place than we had both been earlier.  Love Punta Rocas.   Love my Uncle.