Going to Peru
For all the wrong reasons.
This trip was not planned. I went because my loving uncle Enrique passed away. Enrique was an amazing man. Not only was he a professor, but he was a brilliant engineer. He had written more books than I can count. I am thankful to God for the gift of Surfing. If it were not for surfing, I would not have gotten to know him as well as I did over the past 6 years. He and my aunt were always so generous letting not only me, but my friends stay at their house when we were in Lima. I enjoyed talking to him, helping him out with his computer, and watching his favorite TV show with him. He was a kind, intelligent man, with a super generous heart. I will miss him dearly.
The day after the funeral, I went to Punta Rocas. As I paddled out, I dedicated my surf session to him. Well, that did not turn out too well. On my second wave, my leash broke. I had to swim into the rocks, trying to save my board from getting more damaged than it was already. I tied the broken leash to my ankle, and went back out to get more waves. However, Punta Rocas is a place where you do not want to mess around. I mentally was not there after the funeral, and knowing if I lost my board, I would have another long swim. I called it a session after an hour. A local Peruvian surfer, who saw my broken leash came to my rescue as he brought another leash to my aunts house.
The next day I returned, and it was this session that was for my uncle Enrique. It was the Punta Rocas I knew. Powerful, clean, uncrowded, and super fun. I thought of Enrique as I rode the waves. It brought me peace knowing both he and I were in a better place than we had both been earlier. Love Punta Rocas. Love my Uncle.