Chicama 15

Chicama0047

Chicama, not much more needs to be said.   While Tom and I got to Pacasmayo early, we waited until the biggest day to go to the worlds longest left.   It was the same day that Dave, Bryan, Matty, and Justin were arriving, so we met them there.   This was by far the biggest and best Chicama  I have surfed, in all my years going to Peru.   Rides so long, that your legs begin to ache in pain.   Some waves I had to stand straight up to ease the pain in my legs.    World Class isn’t enough to describe this incredible wave.  Even though it was pretty crowded, I caught plenty of waves.   The thing about the place, is that when a person catches a wave, they are gone for at least 20 min.   This leaves you time to pick off your own wave.   We had the zodiac which ran out of gas, and disappeared for 45 minutes.   But the Zodiac is a life saver in terms of saved energy, and the larger amount of waves you caught.    The problem is there is more than one, and they can be dangerous.   One driver did not see Justin, and almost ran over him.  Not good.

On one wave, later in the session, my leash came off.   I was struggling in the water, trying to swim in.   I was so drained of energy, that even though my board was about 200 feet from me, I was too tired to swim fast enough towards it.   Things were looking pretty bleak, when I saw a little kid on a wave.   He saw me struggling, and also saw my board.   Next thing I know, he is surfing towards my board.   He hops off his board, jumps on my board, and begins to paddle it towards me.   It was like the most beautiful women in the world, coming at you.   He gave me my board, and all I wanted to do was hug him.   I saw him later on the inside.  All I could say was “Gracias por mi vida”